What do horses eat?

 

Horses and ponies are herbivores and mainly eat forage, based on grass, hay and haylage. That said, it’s important to maintain a balanced diet with all the food groups required; here’s a quick guideline of what to feed horses.

 

Forage first

Horses have evolved to munch forage for up to 18 hours a day and 65% of their gut is devoted to digesting fibre! Such is their need for fibre that if they don’t have enough of it, they are at a higher risk of conditions such as gastric ulcers, colic and weight loss. Their mental wellbeing can also be affected if they are prevented from chewing. Ideally, horses should be provided with as much forage as they will eat but those on restricted rations should not be left for more than six hours without any.

 

What to feed horses, other than forage?

Even ’good quality’ forage should be supplemented with a balancer or compound feed to make sure the diet provides the protein, vitamins and minerals needed to support health and athletic performance.

So, what to feed horses that are overweight? Even overweight horses need to be given key daily nutrients, to balance their diet. Whilst grass alone may provide up to three times their daily energy (calorie) requirements, horses also need particular nutrients such as lysine, copper, zinc and selenium, which are typically low in UK pasture. Vitamin E is the most important antioxidant and although grass alone may meet maintenance requirements, levels in hay and haylage may be lacking.

 

 

What’s the best feed for my horse?

The best way to provide a horse with the daily vitamins and minerals they need is to use a feed balancer or a compound feed. A balancer is a concentrated feed, normally a pellet, designed to be fed in small quantities together with a double handful of chaff, which means minimal calories. Feeding your horse a compound feed such as pony nuts or mix requires them to be fed at a much higher quantity in order to meet the horse’s daily need for extra nutrients and a larger volume of feed means extra calories!

 

Don’t forget the water

Although not a nutrient, water is the most important, yet often most overlooked, component of the horse’s diet and is involved in almost every physiological body process. Water accounts for approximately 65% of body mass in mature horses and up to 85% in foals. How much horses drink varies between individuals and is affected by weather, workload and the type of diet. Fresh grass can go long a way towards meeting the needs of those living out, but in hot weather, water intake can more than double. A 500kg stabled horse eating dry hay may drink 40 litres of water a day!

 

 

How much does a horse eat?

A 350kg pony living out may tuck into a whopping 17.5kg of grass per day! But when it comes to weight gain every horse is different. Some seem to put on weight just by glancing at a blade of grass, while others will stay sleek despite chomping through vast quantities of forage and additional feed. When choosing what to feed your horse, it’s important to treat them as an individual and assess their body condition, temperament, routine, workload, breed and any veterinary problems before working out their daily feed ration.

Horses should eat a minimum of 15g/kg bodyweight of forage per day (dry matter), which equates to approximately 9kg of hay (11kg if you intend to soak it before feeding) or 10-12kg of haylage, for a 500kg horse who doesn’t have access to grazing. The meal sizes of daily feeds should be small, at no more than 2kg for horses and less for ponies.

Horses and ponies have sensitive digestive systems so always speak to a vet or nutritionist before changing their feed, especially if they are prone to conditions such as laminitis, colic or gastric ulcers, or if you’re deciding what to feed a new horse.

If

How to buy a horse

 Buying a new horse is never an easy task, partly because there are always myriad options from which to choose. You might have narrowed your specifics considerably, but there will always be more horses on the market than you have time to see.

Strategy is important, whether you're buying horses for competition or pleasure. You'll have different criteria if you're looking for a child versus an adult, just like the experience and abilities of the rider will make an enormous difference. So what is the right strategy for buying horses?

1- Never Buy the First Horse You See

I know all about love at first sight. It happened to me when I was a senior in high school, and the horse's name was Bella. She was the most beautiful thing I'd ever seen: perfect combination, wide-set eyes, a gently-sloping forehead. Riding her was like sitting on a cloud, and I knew I had to have her.

It worked out all right with Bella, but this isn't always the case. If you're in the market for buying horses, make sure you see as many of them as possible. You can always go back and see if that first horse is still available, and most horses don't leave the market that quickly anyway.

I always tell my clients to look at ten horses or more before making a decision. This will give you an idea for what the market has to offer and will delay your decision until you can think it over. You might discover that the horse you really want has some obscure problem that you won't want to deal with.

2- Shop Locally

If you're buying horses that currently live halfway across the world, you have quite a bit of traveling in your future. It is never a good idea to buy horses sight-unseen, and most of us don't have time to go traipsing from city to city in search of the perfect animal.

Unless you have very specific criteria for an Olympic-level horse, you can find a suitable animal practically in your own backyard. Depending on where you live, you might be able to limit your search to a 100-mile radius with no problem.

You'll also find that buying horses locally means there is less chance of running into a scam. People are far more wary of ripping off customers who live right around the corner.

3- Order a Drug Test

You might be the most honest person in the world, but everyone is not so scrupulous. Some horse breeders will drug their horses before showing them so they are calm and pliable. This means a serious shock when you take the horse home and wind up in the dirt. Run a drug test and have the horse vetted by a qualified veterinarian before you write that check.

4- Take the Horse Home

Buying horses, as mentioned above, can be a nasty business. If you really want to protect yourself, insist on a trial run with the horse before your purchase is solidified. Pay for the horse and take him home for a week with the option to sell him back if he doesn't work out. This gives you a chance to try him out on your home turf with no pressure.

This is particularly useful when buying school horses for a lesson program. Since school horses must possess a very specific set of qualities, a trial run reduces the chances of buying a dud. Just make sure you are clear in the paperwork that you have the option for a full refund if the horse isn't what you thought.

5- Grow Slowly

If you run a horse business, you'll be buying horses left and right. Just don't get too far ahead of yourself. Your equine inventory is your biggest asset as a horse business owner. Whether you're breeding horses or teaching lessons, a great portion of your income rests in the hands of those animals. Making quick purchases all at once is a mistake.

The same is true if you are a serious competitor hoping to amass a stable of performance horses. Your biggest asset in the show ring is diversity in your animals. Buying several horses all at once doesn't give you a chance to learn each horse's personality before choosing the next one.

6- Order X-rays

Depending on where you live, a typical vet check for buying horses might not include thorough X-rays. An X-ray of the horse's navicular bone, for example, will illustrate whether or not the horse has experienced significant navicular changes that might result in future lameness.

In addition to the X-rays and the aforementioned drug screen, your veterinarian should examine the horse's:

• Overall health
• Medical history
• Hooves
• Teeth and gums
• Coat, mane and tail
• Dietary health

When buying horses, your veterinarian's recommendation is only a jumping-off point. You might realize that you can live with your horse's poor dietary habits or his navicular changes, but at least you know about them. And health discoveries can become a bargaining chip in the purchase of a horse.

7- Ride the Horse

You would think this would be a given, but I can't tell you how many times I hear of someone buying horses without actually riding them first. This is a huge mistake, not only because you won't know what you are getting.

All horses move differently and respond to different commands. You won't know if the horse is compatible with your training, experience and abilities unless you actually sit on his back. Riding horses before buying them should be a priority, no matter what the owner says.

8- Ride the Horse in Your Discipline

Let's say that you are a three-day eventer. Before buying horses, you need to try them out in dressage, stadium jumping and cross-country before writing that check. Failing to try the horse out in your specific discipline might cause you to make a mistake. Maybe he's great in the dressage ring, but refuses every jump you point him at.

9- Buy From Someone You Trust

Why do you have to resort to buying horses over the Internet? Or through classified ads in Canada? You don't realize how many people you know until you start going through their names-your friend knows someone who knows someone who owns a barn, and they have hundreds of horses for sale.

It's that simple. You might want to think about buying horses at the farm where you take riding lessons or from someone your trainer has done business with in the past. Buying from someone you know (or someone you've met through a personal grapevine) is the safest way to go about buying horses.

10- Bring a Trainer

Unless you are a professional horseman yourself, you shouldn't even think of buying horses without a trainer present. He or she will look out for your best interests and will be able to spot obscure details that you never would have noticed. Regardless of how independent you are, a trainer is essential through this process.

People will always making mistakes when buying horses, but you can eliminate the majority of them by having a plan before you start looking. Write out your criteria and decide exactly what you want before you start calling numbers from the classified ads.

suitable horses for kids

 

What do you do if your kid asks for a horse? Supposing you say, "Yes," how do you go about picking one?

How do you choose a good horse for kids? How do you find on who is kind, gentle, loving, and willing to please? Just as important, how do you stay away from those who buck, kick, bite, and have other horrible vices? These are all important questions to ask when you shopping for a horse for kids.

My answer is simple:

To find a good horse for kids, choose one with the right horse personality type.

There are certain equines with personality types custom-made for kids, and other types that should definitely be avoided. When it comes to the safety and fun of your little ones, you definitely want to go with horse personality types that make good children's horses. Luckily, that's not difficult. There's even an online test to help you do just that.

Five-Element Horse Personality Types

If you have been around equines for any length of time, then you know that has a distinct personality, just like humans. Some are mischievous while others are competitive. Some spend their lives trying to please while others only want to win at all costs. Certain horses are tough as nails, others are as soft as marshmallows. It all depends on their personality type.

The Five-Element horse personality typing system I developed predicts a horse's behavior and health challenges, as well as the best career and management style for each type. The system is based on the five elements of Traditional Chinese Medicine: Water, Fire, Wood, Metal and Earth. There are five straight types (based on each of the five elements), as well as six combination types.

The Best Horse Personality Types for Kids

So which personality type should you choose as a good horse for kids? Based on my experience, the best children's horse is one of the following three personality types:

#1: The Earth Horse Personality Type

The Earth type is generally sweet, gentle, and has a sweet tooth. His motto is, "Let's be a team!" The Earth personality type loves children, and makes a reliable lesson horse. Fond of routine, once an Earth horse learns his job he can be depended on to do it well. He is perhaps a bit on the sluggish side (he likes to stop and graze), but other than that makes an excellent children's horse. He is usually too lazy to bother with bucking or running, and as long as he is well-fed and has a steady routine, he makes a great kid's mount.

#2: The Shao Yin (Fire/Water) Horse Personality Type

The Shao Yin typeis highly intelligent, fun-loving, and can make an excellent mount for kids. When trained, the Shao Yin type is a wonderful caretaker for beginner riders and children alike. This kind of equine loves to figure things out. He is also gentle, affectionate, and kind. Shao Yin horses don't do well under pressure, which makes them perfect horses for low-key events like playdays or gymkhanas. Because they love attention and are very sociable, these horses enjoy hours of grooming, grazing, and "quality time" with kids.

#3: The Yang Ming (Metal/Earth) Horse Personality Type

The Yang Ming type is a loyal companion who tries his best to please. Once this type has learned his job, he will never forget it. He will perform flawlessly in a number of disciplines, being highly versatile as well as reliable. His only demand is that he be treated fairly. While not as affectionate as the Earth or Shao Yin types, the Yang Ming type works hard and is a good caretaker. His steady disposition and reliability make him an excellent children's horse.

Two Other Possible Horse Personality Types for Kids

While Earth, Shao Yin, and Yang Ming horses are my top picks as personality types suitable for kids, there are two other types that can also be good children's horses when well-trained: Metal and Tai Yin horses. If your child is older, more experienced, or wants to be competitive in rodeo or on the show circuit, either of these two personality types may work well.

The Metal Horse Personality Type

The Metal type is extremely hard-working, can stand up to a rigorous training schedule, and, once trained, never forgets his job. Early in his career, the Metal type must understand his job or he may be prone to bucking, making him a poor choice for children. However, the well-trained and experienced Metal horse can make a good children's horse. He will do his job well and without complaint. He isn't the "best friend" type, but is a suitable horse for the kid who wants to do Little Britches rodeo and be competitive in the show ring.

The Tai Yin (Earth/Metal) Horse

The Tai Yin type can also make a good horse for kids as long as he gets along with the child. This type is often a "one-person" mount, and does not get along well with everyone. However, if this equine likes your child, he will try his heart out. Although the Tai Yin type is not highly affectionate he will often demonstrate caring through hard work and fierce loyalty. This type will do almost anything for a person he likes, and thus makes a good kid's horse for any child he likes.

Test a Horse's Personality Before Buying

Now that you know which personality types are suitable as children's horses, how do you know what kind of personality a horse has? Suppose you are considering several horses to buy for your child. How do you know which to choose? Simple. Just test the personality of each horse you are considering.

Visit the Horse Harmony Test website to test each horse's personality. This online personality test will tell you the personality type of each possibility. You can then read a short summary of each horse at the Horse Harmony website.

If you don't know the horse well enough to type him, ask his current owner to test the possible euqine for you. You might be surprised. The seemingly gentle mount with a gleam in his eye may look like the perfect children's horse, yet the Horse Harmony Test may reveal the horse to be a Jue Yin, a tricky horse not at all suitable as a horse for kids.

The test is no-cost, so it can't hurt to type any horses you are considering for your child. For that matter, if you already own horses, it may be interesting for you to test them as well. You can also test your own personality on the same site, just for kicks!

Ways to buy or sell a horse

 

When it comes to SELLING, prepare at least one month out from sale. Get the horse fit, clip if the time of the year warrants it and pull the mane or trim until tidy (get help if you need it) include tail, ears, fetlocks and under the jaw line. For higher prices feature a variety of experiences i.e. beach hacking, road riding and competition experience and sort out any trucking or floating issues. Get some good photos (see photo section below) or have them professionally done if possible and if your budget allows. Produce a really good video/DVD (see video section below) - have several copies available to send out when enquiries come in. Be honest in the advert - tell people what to expect, realistically for NOW not in the past or for the future. Have a relaxed positive manner on the phone when talking to potential buyers who call and give the caller both positive and any negative stories if you can - don't blow either out of proportion. Ask about their experience but be aware, a lot of people think they ride better than they do. Anyone who has only ridden in riding lessons in riding schools and never owned a horse, class them as beginners, they still have a lot to learn. If you have any concerns about your horse's safety (vices), i.e. rearing or bolting, be brutally honest - it might blow your sale but it might save their life! Ask the person what they would like to see if they come to see your horse, i.e. being caught, galloped, jumped or schooled and try to display what the person wants the horse for, i.e. if they want a hack go hacking first and foremost!

Be punctual and have the horse ready in time and groomed to a tidy state. See if the personality of the horse and rider match - do they offer the right home for your horse?

If your riding will not show off the horse to its best potential get a more experienced friend/instructor to help show the horse at its best. Make sure you are honest with soundness issues - it's not worth the reputation damage if you are found out. If your potential buyer needs a few days to think about it don't hound them. Have in your mind how much you are prepared to negotiate on price. If you have no enquiries look at your asking price or the horse's ability and experience - if you are comfortable with those, be patient! Encourage a vet check - if you don't, you look like you are hiding something. And lastly, don't be pushy!

At the other end of the scale, when it comes to BUYING be realistic about the type of horse you want given your budget and your experience. Look objectively at your grazing facilities, i.e. is there plenty of grass year round? If you are on a tight budget get a 'good-doer' that will maintain its condition easily so you are not spending a fortune on hard feed. Be aware of the costs for good gear, particularly saddles - a sore back will turn even the quietest horse into an unpleasant one. Similarly, budget for shoeing, teeth and the inevitable vet bill - talk to others about what can be expected. If you request and receive a video of a horse to review please return it once you have finished with it - it's polite. When talking to the seller on the phone be very honest about your ability and what you want the horse for. If you see a horse which is too good to be true, often it is, so beware! Unless you are very experienced, don't touch anything with a history of bolting or rearing. If you are considering a young horse, budget on getting lessons regularly i.e. once a week for at least a year. Tell the seller what you want to see when you try out a pony or horse, i.e. hacking, jumping, flatwork, being caught in the paddock etc. If possible see the horse in a variety of settings both at the seller's place and out somewhere else. Take support with you, like an instructor who can get on and put the horse through its paces if you don't feel confident to do that. Ask to talk to others about the horse i.e. farrier, instructor, friends etc, you often find out interesting information. When you set a time to see the horse, be punctual and when you get there, don't waste time - get in, see what you want to see and then let the seller get on with their day. Look at the horse's hooves and ask if they have had any foot trouble. Ask about soundness, ie has the horse ever pulled tendons, broken any bones or had any significant injury, even check for scarring. Find out if the horse has ever 'tied up' (this is a muscular condition where all the muscles on the horse cramp up). Enquire about vices - do they kick, bite, wind-suck etc. Ask if the horse is stressy / aggressive / calm / submissive by itself or with company in the paddock? Is the horse good at having their feet trimmed and shod? Find out if the horse is good on the roads, with trucks and motorbikes etc. Get a vet check and choose a vet who is doing vet checks all the time - they understand what is required of a horse at various levels. If you find your dream horse - get moving and put a deposit on it. If it is not your dream horse let the seller know politely that you are not interested as soon as you can.

GOOD LUCK!

THE ESSENTIALS OF TAKING FANTASTIC PHOTOS OF YOUR HORSE

Taking great photos of your horse can be time consuming and frustrating. If it is a bright sunny day make sure the sun is on your back and hitting the horse. Remove the horse's rug and turn-out the horse to your best ability - remove all mud! Try using coat enhancing products and make sure all your gear is cleaned. It is helpful to have a towel, fly repellent spray and a bottle of baby oil with you (the baby oil rubbed on with a towel is a quick way to remove dust and add shine). Stand the horse side on, front legs even, back leg closest to you and slightly behind the other leg so that you can take front and back photos. When it comes to action shots, take them in bright light as the shutter on the camera will shut more quickly so there is less chance of legs blurring. Photograph your horse with both ears forward and include the neck for balance, making sure you don't cut off legs, ears etc. Position the camera between your horse's eyes and chest, focus on the eyes and fill the frame with its head and shoulders. To avoid distortion, stand at least a metre from the animal - some close-up shots of the head are also helpful. To get the horse's attention, have your assistant stand a few metres away from your horse and wave a towel or similar object, but obviously not too close, you don't want to scare the horse. Introducing another horse is highly effective and a good tip is to shake the food bucket - alternatively you could try a whistle. Have your assistant hold a carrot or pick some grass and hold it up.

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW FOR CREATING VIDEOS WHICH GET RESULTS!

A great video is a fantastic way of showing your horse's unique personality, expressions and emotions. When you are selling a horse it is one of the most effective means to get a quick, easy, and stress free sale. The best place to take a video of your horse for sale is at a show. Show the whole event; either a dressage test, SJ round or race; so the viewer can get caught up in the emotion of the competition. To show the horse's leg action, video the horse on a firm, flat surface beside a solid wall if possible. Put the horse and rider in the center of the screen at all times and avoid shooting through rails of a fence - try and find somewhere high so the rails don't obscure the view. Follow the horse with the zoom taking care not to get too close. Try and keep the horse and rider the same size in the camera lens at all times and at then end include a nice close up of the horse. Avoid talking to the rider during the video - it's off-putting to the rider and the viewer. Ensure you have a plan - don't just trot around aimlessly! For a non ridden video of young stock try getting a purposeful walk, trot and canter. It's not always easy to do and if it's not happening wait for another day - good footage at a later date is better than bad footage now that does nothing to flatter your horse. Try producing a MASTER VIDEO to send out to prospective purchasers. This gives the potential buyer a chance to see your entire stock not just one horse! It should encompass your farm, stables, and a short video of each horse. Accompany it with a short narration of each telling the name, age, breed, experience and pedigree. If you can, add nice music to your MASTER VIDEO. Adding a video to a listing site is really easy and a great way to get people to see and interact with your horse at first glance - a chance for love at first sight! Put you video in Windows Media or Apple Quick time format. READY, LIGHTS, CAMERA, ACTION!

Horse care

 Horses are amazingly beautiful and sensitive creatures. Horses require not only understanding and patience to have a horse as a pet, it also requires a whole lot of care.

Herd Mentality:

Observe horses in the herd system, each horse's welfare in the wild depends upon an instinctive submission to the discipline of the herd. The instinct is for immediate action. To the horse, action is survival. When horses live in an herd environment, they often take turns sleeping and standing guard for any predators. When the leader of the herd signals danger they take flight.

Learning respect and ascending to authority starts on the first day of life for the foals, there is a distinct pecking order in herds of horses.

It is important to keep a quiet profile around horses. Horses naturally do not like unnecessary noise because in the wild their survival depends on detection of predators with their hearing. Extraneous noise interferes with this predator detection. This predator detection is tightly coupled with a horse's flight reflex. Due to these survival genetics, horses have a physiological wiring in their brains that predisposes them to prefer quietness and to become bothered by unnecessary noise. Many horses can get startled easily from abrupt noises and this could result in injury to the horse, the rider, or people around the horse. Talk to your horse in a quiet, reassuring voice.

Relationship With Horses:

A horse will love you if, first and foremost, you treat it fairly, and secondly, if you allow yourself to develop a relationship with it in the same way you would a human partner. There are too many who will look after the horse's material needs but put nothing back into the partnership itself. The horse born in captivity will identify with an alternative provider and companion, resulting in a healthy relationship from the beginning. A healthy relationship with your horse requires: trust, coupled with respect, fondness with compliance, and a desire to please.

Check Your Horse:

Examine your horse every day and especially prior to riding the horse. Carefully examine the horse's legs and back for any unusual heat or lumps. Make sure that the horse's eyes are alert and not glazy. Listen for any excessive noise or gurgling sounds coming from your horse's stomach. Catching problems before they become serious is critical to keeping a show horse sound and alive.

Exercise caution and discretion when around stallions and mares when they are in heat. They are dealing with hormones on an order of magnitude that you probably can not comprehend. Stallions typically bite and some may be easily triggered into violent behavior.

Grooming Horses:

Keep your horse clean. Keep your horse's entire coat free from dirt, mud, sand, and sweat. Brush your horse every day. Pick out your horse's feet every day. Wash out any sweat residue from the saddle pad or girth every day. Wash out any dirt or sand residue, as from the riding arena, on your horses legs every day. A number of different problems can result if a horse's coat is not kept clean.

Barn Care:

Keep your horse's stall clean. Make sure that your horse's stall is cleaned every day. Be sure that any wetness is removed with the manure. Replace the removed bedding with fresh, clean, dry bedding. Water should be dumped from buckets every day without exception. Unhealthy dirt and bacteria can build up in a bucket if it is not cleaned on a daily basis. Clean water is essential to maintaining a healthy horse. Make sure your horse always has clean, fresh water available.

Training A Horse:

The intelligence of the horse increases rapidly with education. An intelligent trainer can make an intelligent horse. A kind but firm trainer will result in a disciplined but pleasing horse.

Horse Feed:

Feed your horse(s) at the same times every day. A horse may get upset and colic or injure themselves by kicking the stall or pawing, if not fed when feeding is expected. You should not make radical changes in a horse's feed program. If you must make a change in the feed program, make the change gradually. Drastic changes in a horse's feed program can cause the horse to colic and in some cases, may die. Your horse's stomach is a highly sensitive bio-reactor that maintains a delicate balance of the organisms that digest food in your horse's digestive track.

Visitors should not feed a horse that you do not own without the owner's permission; no carrots, no apples, no treats, nothing. The horse could potentially, get sick if they have an allergy or sickness.

Pay attention to everything that goes into your horse; that means all feed, all hay, all water, all treats, all supplements, all pills, and all shots. This knowledge could save your horse's life in an emergency situation. Post this information on your horse's stall door so that it is available to a vet if you are not around in an emergency. Make sure that your horse gets high-quality feed and hay. Your horse's health and soundness depends on the nutrition that you provide for them. Take good care of your horse. A rider without a horse is no rider at all.

Vet Care:

Make sure that you have a good equine veterinarian. A good vet will save you money in the long run and may save your horse's life some day. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Make sure your horse has all the vaccinations that are normal for your geographical location. All horses should be on a good worming program to control intestinal parasites. A horse should be wormed by a vet at least twice a year.

Horse Flies:

In the summer spray your horse trailer down with fly spray about 10 minutes before you load the horses. The flies should leave, and your horses will be without those pesky flies!

Cooling Horses:

Never spray a hot, sweaty horse with cold water immediately after working the horse. This can cause muscle spasms and binding, or shock that can lead to death. Wait until the horse is breathing regularly, and use warm water if it is available. If a horse has heat shock, consult your vet and the vet may instruct you to cold hose the horse, even if still hot and sweaty. Never put a horse in a stall or confined area while sweaty or while they are still breathing heavily. This can result in shock and/or colic that can lead to death. Walk the horse until the horse is cooled out and the breathing is normal.

Shoeing:

Horses' hooves generally grow approximately 1 cm in a month, and take nearly a year to grow from the coronet band to the ground. Horse's hooves need to be trimmed regularly (about every 6-8 weeks). Shoeing a horse does not hurt them. If you were to grow out your finger nail, you could put an earring/pin through it without causing discomfort; however, if you pushed the pin through the part of your nail that is attached to the soft tissue of your finger, it would hurt. When horse shoes are nailed in, they are nailed at an angle so which the horse doesn't feel it.

Make sure that you have a good farrier, especially if you show your horse over jumps. The concussion from landing from jumps amplifies any problems in a horse's shoeing. If a horse gets sore feet or legs from bad angles or bad shoeing, the horse can not just take his shoes off, sit back on a couch, and rub their feet, or find another pair of shoes like you can. Bad shoeing can result in your horse becoming lame due to a number of problems including: bowed tendons, popped splints, or shoulder/back soreness or spasms. Bad shoeing can ruin a good horse, so don't be penny-wise and pound-foolish where shoeing is concerned. A laid-up horse is far more expensive to maintain than a good farrier. And remember not all horses need to have shoes, only if they are competing, walking on hard/rocky surfaces, or have hoof problems.

Sleeping:

Horses do lay down to sleep, but only if they feel completely comfortable in their environment. It is not enough to provide a dry stable, food and water. Horses will often sleep standing up by locking their knees. Horses are one of the few animals that can put one half of their body asleep while the other half is wide awake. Emotionally and mentally, all horses need to feel they have and be comfortable in their own space!

To fully enjoy a horse's finer qualities you must treat them with both kindness and quality care. In the end, a happy horse will mean a nicer ride and a happier rider.